Behind the gilded curtain: Hamilton Gallery explores working-class dress in new exhibit

Behind the gilded curtain: Hamilton Gallery explores working-class dress in new exhibit

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Visitors to Salve Regina University's Dorrance Hamilton Gallery are being transported back to the extravagant Gilded Age through the current exhibit, "Fashion and Longing: Gilded Age Dress in New England." This unique display offers an intimate view into Newport's cultural and social history, celebrating an era marked by opulence, societal shifts and emerging modern sensibilities.

Showcasing historic garments from the University of Rhode Island's (URI) Historic Textile and Costume Collection, this exhibition has been attracting visitors since early October and is set to close at the end of the month.

Curated through a partnership between Rebecca Kelly, textile conservator and dress historian at URI, alongside Anthony Mangieri, professor, and Ernest Jolicoeur, associate professor from Salve's Department of Art and Art History, the exhibit highlights the elegant yet complex world of Gilded Age fashion. From refined mourning dresses and finely detailed afternoon wear to bathing suits and men's needlepoint slippers, each garment offers a glimpse into an era when self-expression through clothing reflected one's place in society.

Telling a Different Side of the Story

The exhibition, unlike many others, invites viewers to see Gilded Age clothing as a window into the lives of the growing middle class of the late 19th century. Rather than centering on the wealth and luxury that often define this period, the focus shifts to highlight the experiences of working-class New Englanders, whose stories are woven into the fabric of these historic garments.

"Lots of people visit Newport to behold its architectural grandeur. But the tours along Bellevue Avenue tend to paint a rather biased or exclusionary story of life in New England during the Gilded Age," said Jolicoeur, who also serves as the Hamilton Gallery director. "We hope this exhibition widens the scope of that narrative to include the experiences of others in the community."

Salve's historic location also enriches the exhibit experience. "Fashion and Longing" comes to life in a fitting setting, as Ochre Court and many nearby Gilded Age mansions are monuments to the extravagance and artistic achievements of the era. Built in 1892 for New York real estate magnate Ogden Goelet, Ochre Court once housed gatherings and elaborate social events that echoed Newport's reputation as a hub for high society.

"Visiting the mansions in Newport, it's usually the opulence and wealth of the Gilded Age that makes the biggest impression," noted Mangieri. "I hope that audiences come away with a more nuanced understanding of social class and the importance of dress after seeing our show."

A Special Experience for Salve Students

In addition to bringing Newport's Gilded Age history to life for the public, the exhibit provides a once-in-a-lifetime learning experience for Salve students enrolled in the advanced course ART-405, "Curatorial Practice and the Gallery Experience." These students have gained hands-on experience working alongside Jolicoeur and Mangieri as assistant curators, developing skills in exhibit design, artifact handling and historical research. In particular, students helped plan the layout of each piece within the gallery, considering where and how each garment's unique story could best be told.

"Exploring the Gilded Age through clothing almost seems unreal," shared Abigail Gibson '26, a studio arts major with a concentration in graphic design and a minor in marketing. "It is quite interesting to learn about life that came before us on these very same grounds."

Working on the exhibition has allowed students like Gibson to apply classroom learning to a real-world project and to develop professional skills as they pursue careers in the arts.

"I have never participated in curating an exhibit before, so it was interesting to learn the process of all the steps that go into curating an exhibit, and it was exciting to know that our ideas made an impact on the gallery," shared Gibson.

A Party that Brings Gilded Age Fashion to Life

To celebrate the exhibit and showcase their work, the Department of Art and Art History hosted a Gilded Age-inspired Halloween party. Students from ART-405 embraced the spirit of the era by creating and wearing costumes inspired by clothing in the exhibit - garments that once graced Newport's fashionable socialites and its working class. Gibson and classmates took inspiration from Arden Holt's "Fancy Dresses Described; or, WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS," a Gilded Age book published in 1887, that catalogs the era's fanciful costumes by simple names.

Each student selected a costume concept from the book to interpret, choosing from a range of creative themes and styles.
For a fun twist on the assignment, students were required to choose a piece from the Gilded Age list but only had to wear something related to the name of the garment. This allowed for creative interpretations and unique takes on the era's fanciful costume titles.

Gibson chose the "United States" costume, which Holt describes as a "short white satin skirt with red and blue stripes; blue satin tunic edged with silver, draped with American Flag," embodying the patriotic spirit. The assignment gave students a chance to immerse themselves in the attire of the time while bringing a modern touch to the historical celebration.

This event allowed students to interact with Gilded Age fashion in a unique way, gaining insights into the subtleties of historical costume design while fostering community engagement and creative expression.

Expanding the Exhibit's Reach through Digital Storytelling

As the exhibit approaches its closing date, the students are hard at work on a digital humanities project that will further extend the exhibit's impact. Set to launch online in January 2025, this project uses the garments in the exhibit as a backdrop to tell the fictional story of Mary Anna Violet, a young woman from Newport's Gilded Age society. This narrative, crafted entirely by students, will follow Mary's love of fashion and her dreams for social progress, weaving together historical research with creative storytelling.

"Part art historical study, part scrapbook and part historical fiction, this project uses the dress in our exhibition as a point of departure to imagine and explore the lives of historical people who would have actually worn such clothes through the creation of the diary," explained Mangieri.

For visitors to the gallery, "Fashion and Longing" is a rare opportunity to view garments from a transformative era, beautifully curated within the historic surroundings of the University. With Ochre Court as their daily backdrop, the students are not just studying history but experiencing it - living among the very architecture and landscapes that defined Newport's Gilded Age.