Big Island Abalone Grows Shellfish in Hawai'i

Abalone may just be the coolest snail you've never heard of. Native to the Pacific Ocean, these marine gastropods sport a beautiful shell and a strong muscular "foot" they use to crawl and grip onto hard surfaces. Their range stretches from the U.S. West Coast from California to Alaska, and different species of abalone are found across the Pacific Ocean.

Wherever abalone are found, they're seen as a celebratory food in local cuisines. For millennia, abalone was only harvestable by hand in the Pacific Ocean.

Pervasive overharvesting, along with other factors, caused abalone populations to crash in the 1970s and 1980s. Most populations have failed to bounce back. Today, two species-the white abaloneandblack abalone-are listed under the Endangered Species Act. Other species of abalone are doing better in the United States, but still haven't recovered enough to allow for commercial harvesting.

This is where abalone farmers such as Big Island Abalone, located in Kona on the Island of Hawai'i, come into play. Aquaculture farmers create a sustainable source of seafood, without harming wild populations. Chief Operations Officer of Big Island Abalone, Satoshi Yoshida, moved to Hawai'i from Japan to help share his love for sustainable abalone.

"Wild abalone has historically been favored as a luxury food by many people," said Yoshida. "As a result of overfishing, climate change, and also abalone-specific diseases, wild populations have suffered. It's happening all over the world, not just in the United States. So, eating farmed abalone is becoming the only option for people to enjoy this shellfish."

A Sustainable Shellfish Farm, on Land

Big Island Abalone grows ezo abalone, an abalone native to Japan praised for its fresh taste and pleasant texture. The shellfish are grown on land in tanks, not in the ocean itself, in a contained system. Operating a land-based aquaculture facility requires careful planning and monitoring. Yoshida utilizes his background in pharmaceutical science to maintain the carefully calibrated conditions needed for premium seafood production.

Located at a Natural Energy Laboratory of Hawaii Authority facilityon the Kona coast, the 10-acre farm is one the largest abalone farms in the United States. The sunshine allows dulse, a seaweed variety preferred by abalone, to be grown in tanks year-round. Another benefit of the facility is access to cold seawater, pumped in from far below the ocean's surface.

A typical day at Big Island Abalone is busy. "You start by harvesting dulse seaweed from one tank, and then distribute it to all 400 tanks on the farm," said Yoshida. "We do everything ourselves, farming seaweed on-site and hatching abalone on our own."

Freshly spawned abalone start their lives as free-swimming larvae, before settling as tiny spat that begin to form shells after a few days. At this stage, they will only eat diatoms, which are single-celled algae. From there they grow slowly, being sorted by Big Island Abalone farmers by size every 6 months. In total, it takes between 3 to 5 years for abalone to grow from seed to harvest.

Inspiring Americans to Eat Abalone

Sharing knowledge with visitors about how to farm and cook abalone is Big Island Abalone's core purpose. Each year thousands of people participate in organized tours at the farm. They learn about the abalone lifecycle and get hands-on experience with these special marine snails.

Visitors to Big Island Abalone can enjoy seafood at their food truck or try their hands at cooking abalone themselves at Konda Barbeque, a self-grilling site on the property. Abalone is best prepared grilled on its shell with simple garnishes. Yoshida describes his abalone as having a buttery taste and tender texture when cooked.

Connecting with the public, both on the farm and through food, is a powerful way to inspire conversations about sustainable food systems. Yoshida remarks that these interactions, in addition to praise from hungry customers, are the best part of his job.

"People tend to assume that fish and meat will always be abundant, but I'm concerned that resources for all types of ingredients will eventually become depleted," said Yoshida. "To sustain people's diets and make them more enriching, it will require every effort to cultivate food sustainably. I would be delighted if our work could provide an opportunity to consider these matters."

Fun Fact

Abalone are slow-growing shellfish. Farmed abalone take 3-5 years to grow to market size. In the wild, they can live more than 20 years!

Recipe: Simple Grilled Abalone

• No preparation! Just place the abalone, shell side down on the grill. Cook for 3-4 minutes, then shuck the meat, and cook another about 3-10 minutes on medium heat.
• You can also slice or chop the meat or eat directly from the shell if using small abalone.

• Enjoy with butter, garlic, ginger, soy sauce, lemon, or hot chili peppers!

NOAA's Tide to Table series profiles members of the aquaculture community, who provide valuable jobs and increase access to fresh, sustainably sourced American seafood.

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