Braids for curly and coily hair: Baylor dermatologist weighs in

For those with curly or coily textured hair, getting your hair braided with additional synthetic or human hair can be a way to change your hairstyle and act as a protective one. When a person's natural hair is in this style for a period of time, it's important to know how best to prep the hair for braids, what to keep in mind while it is getting braided, how to take care of it once braids are in and once you remove them. Dr. Oyetewa Oyerinde, assistant professor of dermatology and director of the Skin of Color Clinic at Baylor College of Medicine, shares her expertise below on the popular style.

Question:Before getting braids, how should someone prepare their natural hair?

Answer: They should wash their hair and scalp thoroughly and deep condition their hair to strengthen and hydrate it before the added tension of braids. Also, they should thoroughly detangle their hair to minimize knots and tangling during the braiding process. Trim any split ends to prevent breakage while your hair is in braids.

Q: How long should someone keep their braids in? If they are kept in for too long, can they damage hair permanently?

A: I recommend four to six weeks for optimal hair health; eight weeks is the absolute max. This is because leaving braids in for too long can cause hair loss from tugging and pulling over time due to increased tension on your roots as the hair grows out. People also often experience matting at the roots from products applied to the scalp and scalp sebum, leading to breakage and hair loss during the takedown process.

Q: Can braids be too tight? Can this damage a person's natural hair?

A: If any pain is experienced while getting braids (headaches or the sight of small bumps along your hairline), the braids are too tight. If there is a need for pain medications, the braids are too tight.

This tension can cause traction alopecia, a form of hair loss due to the constant pulling on the hair follicles. This type of damage will lead to breakage or permanent hair loss if done repeatedly over time.

Q: How can someone take care of their hair while in braids?

A: Taking care of the hair in braids starts with how the hair is prepped. Braids should always be installed on freshly washed and deep-conditioned hair. Then, who you go to matters! Getting them done by someone with a "light hand" is important, meaning they don't pull too tight, and it doesn't hurt. You should be able to put your braids in a ponytail on day one without needing pain medications. Pain with braids is not normal and should not be tolerated. Have the confidence to tell your braider to stop and take out a braid if it hurts, especially at the front or back edges of the scalp. I always recommend knotless braids over traditional/classic braids to prevent breakage. Also, synthetic braiding hair is more damaging than human hair, because the rough fibers rub against your hair shaft, drying it out and causing breakage.

Once the braids are installed, you want to moisturize regularly, at least two to three times a week. Use a diluted leave-in conditioner or water-based moisturizer to keep the hair hydrated, focusing on where you know the ends of your real hair are. Follow up with a light oil, such as jojoba, argan or coconut oil, to seal in the moisture. If you must apply mousse to help reduce frizz and keep braids looking neat, do this on top of the leave-in and oil. Some mousses contain alcohol, which can dry out your hair, so opt for alcohol-free versions to minimize drying.

Q: How often should a person wash their hair while in braids?

A: I recommend that a person should wash their hair every two weeks while in braids. Use a shampoo or a cleansing spray to gently cleanse your scalp and roots without disrupting the braids and rinse the shampoo out sideways to avoid drenching all the hair to prevent frizz. Follow this with leave-in conditioner, oil and mousse to battle frizz and fly-aways. Consider using a hooded dryer and/or tying the hair down so it dries flat.

Q: How can someone manage an itchy scalp while their hair is in braids?

A: People usually think itching on the scalp is due to dry scalp, but that is not usually the case. Itching on the scalp in braids is most often due to one of two issues: seborrheic dermatitis (the activity of yeast overgrowth on the scalp, which thrives in oily and sweaty environments) or allergic contact dermatitis (rash from allergy or irritation from hair products, dyes or other chemicals).

For management, washing regularly is key. Also, use water-based scalp serums instead of oil to hydrate and soothe the scalp. Look for ingredients like zinc pyrithione, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, tea tree and/or apple cider vinegar, which are formulated into a water-based product.

Q: Once braids are out of a person's hair, how should they detangle their hair and properly clean it?

A: Apply a detangling product with slip or oil generously to the braids, and remove the braids slowly, taking your time to avoid ripping through the hair. Gently finger-detangle your hair first, removing shed hairs (remember, you shed 50-100 hairs daily, and it has been weeks!) and gently teasing out any knots. Once your hair has been detangled with your fingers, use a wide-tooth comb starting from the ends and working your way up to the roots.

Make sure your hair is thoroughly detangled before getting it soaked or adding shampoo. After detangling, cleanse your hair with a sulfate-free shampoo to remove buildup and follow up with a deep conditioning treatment to restore moisture and elasticity.

Q: Can braids grow a person's hair?

A: No style (braids included) causes your hair to grow more or less. However, braids can help retain length by minimizing breakage and manipulation.

People feel that braids "grow their hair" because they can clearly see the new growth at the roots when they leave their hair in one style over time. However, once the braids are taken down, some people notice that their hair seems to be the same length that it was before the style was placed, even though they saw new growth. This is due to hair breakage while in the style (from tension, dryness or the physical rubbing of synthetic fibers against their hair) or breakage during the takedown process. Proper care while wearing braids can create an environment conducive to hair growth and length retention by protecting your hair and reducing daily wear and tear.

Q: Anything else to add?

A: Regularly inspect your braids for any signs of damage or tension. Listen to your hair and scalp - if something feels uncomfortable, it's important to address it promptly to prevent long-term damage. Braids are not recommended for anyone already experiencing hair loss or breakage, as they often compound the problem.

These tips can help maintain healthy hair while enjoying the versatility and protection that braids offer.

By Taylor Barnes

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