Voluminous lightness for Loewe Spring-Summer 2025 women’s runway collection

LoeweCreative Director Jonathan Anderson once again embraced restraint for his Spring-Summer 2025 women's collection, presented at the Château de Vincennes in Paris.

A single bird sculpture by British artist Tracey Emin, entitled The only place you came to me was in my sleep (2017), sat with peaceful presence in the show space.

Silhouettes traced a circular path in the center of the almost empty white room, flowing into the curvaceous lines of tailoring. Draping moved also in circles, short cape-like leather jackets were flared below the waist, as if frozen in the wind, and sequined mini dresses created a corolla effect as legs emerge from the hem. Floral prints and delicate silks fluttered in motion, revealing their crinoline structure. Models moved effortlessly in Ballet Runners and elongated Oxfords, grounding the grace of the silhouettes in footwear of varying proportions. The new trapezoid-shaped Madrid bag pays homage to Loewe's home city, and the latest iteration of the Puzzle bag comes in feather-light nappa leather.

Often balancing on the cusp of dream and reality, pieces play with illusion. An embossed leather coat reveals the hip, and white feathers create an ethereal cage around the bust. The fragility of feathers contrasts with a camouflage pattern, while hand-applied mother-of-pearl fragments transform plumage into scales or shells. Like Emin's bronze bird, the collection seems poised to take flight, claiming a new form of freedom.

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