Organizing under tough economic conditions in Zimbabwe’s garment industry

According to reports unemployment is close to 90 per cent as the economy is largely informal and recovery is slow as industrial manufacturing activities remain stagnant. However, even under the difficult economic environment in which retrenchments have depleted union membership, trade unions remain resilient.

The National Union of the Clothing Industry (NUCI), which is affiliated to IndustriALL Global Union, said what is contributing to its retention of members is an organizing strategy anchored on better industrial relations and collective bargaining. However, the union is still pushing for living wages and better working conditions. Currently the workers are paid wages that are agreed upon by unions and the National Employment Council for the Clothing Industry in the sectoral collective bargaining agreement. The minimum wage for garment workers is US$180 and the union is campaigning for living wages of over US$250.

One of the factories covered by the collective agreement is school uniform manufacturer, Enbee, where NUCI has over 100 members. Some union members at Enbee told IndustriALL during a factory visit in Harare on 27 September that they have worked at the company for over 40 years during which time they contributed to the success of the uniform brand. Further, the workers said they also remained committed members of their trade union.

The union said the generational mix in the factory allowed for the sharing of skills between the youth and senior workers some of whom are now supervisors. Amongst the supervisors are women who are employed in different capacities. Some youth from NUCI have also actively participated in trade union organizing activities that have been facilitated by the IndustriALL regional office for Sub Saharan Africa.

On Zimbabwe's economic crisis, NUCI said most of the country's large textile and garment factories closed due to hyperinflation, a currency crisis, unreliable electricity, and water shortages. Further, the influx of imported garments and textile imports which are about 95 per cent, and used clothes made locally produced garments uncompetitive and expensive. For instance, a locally made formal shirt from the factory costs as much as US$15 while a preowned shirt donated from Europe costs only US$2. Additionally, high production costs, and an exodus of skilled workers to neighbouring countries also affected the textile and garment industries.

The once vibrant locally grown cotton to clothes value chain has also declined. However, the cotton that is still grown is exported instead of being used locally. Government information confirms that small-scale farmers prefer the export market for their cotton because of better prices.

However, despite the dire economic situation, there are glimmers of hope for the industry, says Joseph Tanyanyiwa, the National Union of the Clothing Industry, general secretary.

"The union continues to provide services to its members even under the unfavourable economic environment. At policy level, we continue to engage the government and municipalities on the revival of the textile and garment industry through local procurement and sourcing policies that create local jobs. We are optimistic that with appropriate policy interventions the garment industries will be revived."

"We commend the resilience of trade unions in Zimbabwe's textile and garment industry who are organizing under tough conditions amid a cost-of-living and economic crises. This underscores the importance of union commitment to always servicing members,"

says Paule France Ndessomin, IndustriALL regional secretary for Sub Saharan Africa.

Other Zimbabwean IndustriALL affiliates that organize in the textile, garment, shoe, and leather sectors are the Zimbabwe Textile Workers Union and the Zimbabwe Leather, Shoe, and Allied Workers Union.