Transformational technologies shaping the market for hair repair

Transformational technologies shaping the market for hair repair

• Unilever R&D pioneered internal repair through bond building with the launch of Dove Intensive Repair 14 years ago
• In the world's top nine countries for hair care products, sales of those which manage damage have risen €139 million year on year from 2022 to 2023
• New Dove Bond Repair provides advanced bond strengthening and tackles extreme repair with a Bio-Protein Care + Peptide complex that works in harmony with hair's biology

Hair damage is a growing concern among consumers. Search the hashtag #HairDamage on TikTok and you'll find 282.8 million videos tackling issues ranging from split ends to reduced volume and shine.

There are a variety of reasons for this. For example, more people are choosing longer hair styles, as well as colour treatments.

The impact of pollution and hair styling tools are other factors. And because of this, we're seeing an increase in the number of hair care products people use, as well as a growing demand for solutions that repair hair damage.

Share of basket is also on the rise, with Nielsen Research reporting that the world's top nine markets for hair care products have seen sales of products that manage damage rising €139 million year on year from 2022 to 2023.

"Hair is the ultimate asset of self-expression," says R&D Hair Fibre Care specialist Stephen Maguire. "But achieving your desired hair style is also dependent on the condition your hair is in."

Unlocking the secret to stronger hair

Hair is made up of 90% keratin protein, 7% water and 3% lipids.

"Each hair fiber has two main parts: the cuticle on the outside and the cortex on the inside, which is made of keratin strands bonded together throughout the length of the fiber," Stephen explains.

"Keratin gives hair its strength, shape and movement. When hair is damaged by factors like heat, chemical treatments and environmental pollution, these protein bonds can break. This weakens the structure of the internal hair fiber and in turn the strength and condition of your hair.

"Historically, damage repair technologies only worked on the hair surface by masking the signs of damage," Stephen says.

"Unilever R&D discovered a way that you could put things inside that hair fiber to repair it internally. We launched our first Fiber Active Repair Technology in Dove's Intensive Repair products over a decade ago. Since then, we have been a pioneer in internal hair repair," he adds.

Repairing and strengthening hair from the inside

Today, Fiber Active Repair Technology is in a range of Unilever's hair care products such as Dove, Nexxus, TRESemmé, Sunsilk and SheaMoisture. It features in shampoos, conditioners, and serums, including rinse-off and leave-on treatments.

"Fiber Active Repair Technology rebuilds the protein bonds inside the hair fiber and improves the hair's resilience to damage," Stephen explains.

"It does this through a unique blend of molecules which act as protein chaperones. These penetrate deep into the hair fibers and create new bonds to replace damaged bonds inside the hair."

Shaping pioneering research into new hair care bestsellers

The latest innovation to benefit from Unilever's world-class research is Dove's Bond Repair (known as Dove Bond Strength in the US).

This new range of advanced bond-strengthening products includes three active patented technologies.

Powered by Bio-Protein Care + Peptides, it works in harmony with your hair's biology to visibly repair and restore the signs of extreme damage, resulting in stronger, smoother and shinier hair.

In the first 100 days of its launch in the US, sales of Dove Bond Strength exceeded sales expectations across major retailers, and the range enjoyed the same success with its launch in Brazil.

Protecting hair fibers from surface damage

But strengthening hair from the inside is just one part the Unilever R&D hair repair story.

"Total fiber care requires technologies that repair the fiber internally and externally," Stephen adds.

When hair is damaged, the hair fiber's surface becomes more hydrophilic, which means it is more porous to water. And this makes it harder for surface repair treatments to work.

"Our breakthrough Fiber Shield technology intelligently deposits on the hair surface," says Stephen. "In short, it specifically targets those areas which have more damage."

"When Fiber Shield is used in conditioners and rinse-off treatments, it helps the hair surface repel water again, restoring the fiber surface properties and reversing symptoms of damage," he explains.

The technology has been used in the new Dove Bond Strength range to create Dove 10-in-1 Bond Strength Serum Mask.

Designed as a weekly treatment, it uses a patented peptide complex to fortify hair bonds and help reverse ten visible signs of damage. When the mask is left on the hair for a minute, it can transform extremely damaged hair and make it ten times stronger, softer and smoother.

The future of hair care

Consumer hair habits are evolving. "We're seeing a growing number of people increase the steps in their hair care routines," says Stephen.

"We're innovating at pace to ensure we continue to develop technologies that address consumer needs to strengthen and protect hair from the inside out."