Are Gel Manicures Bad for You? An Expert Explains the Risks, and How to Best Avoid Them

There's a lot to love about gel manicures. The polish dries to a glossy sheen almost instantly. And gel manicures are resistant to scratches and dulling, allowing chip-free, shiny color to last up to 3 weeks. But does this convenience come at a cost? Are gel manicures bad for you?

What is a gel manicure?

A gel manicure differs from a regular manicure in three main ways:

1. Type of polish: Instead of using regular nail polish, gel manicures use gel-based polish. This polish contains different ingredients that provide a lacquer-like finish.

2. Dry method: Regular nail polish air-dries. Gel polish, on the other hand, uses an ultraviolet (UV) lamp to dry each coat for about 30-60 seconds. Once the gel polish is dry, it's almost indestructible.

3. Removal process: Regular nail polish can be easily removed at home with nail polish remover and a cotton ball. But gel polish should be removed at the salon. Your technician will use a fine sander to remove the top layers of polish. Then, they'll soak your nails in 100% acetone polish remover. Pure acetone is more potent than regular nail polish remover. It breaks down the cured nail polish, helping to lift it off your nail plate.

Are gel manicures bad for you?

Gel manicures are popular because they're long-lasting. But they can cause damage to your nails and the surrounding skin. The following are the most common health downsides when it comes to gel manicures.

Irritation caused by gel nail polish

Gel polish can contribute to nail and cuticle damage. It contains harsh chemicals that can damage and thin your nail and irritate surrounding skin, especially when used frequently.

Gel polish may cause a number of changes in your nail plate, including:

• Splitting

• Dryness or brittleness

• Scaling or flaking

• White spots

• Grooves

These visual changes are most often seen after the polish is removed, but some people may notice them while the gel polish is still on their nails.

Other side effects from gel nail polish may include:

• Contact dermatitis: The main compounds in gel polishes are called methacrylates. These can cause allergic skin reactions around the nails in people who are sensitive to them.

• Itching, pain, or burning: This can happen during the manicure, and/or after the polish has been removed. It can affect your nails or the surrounding skin.

• Changes in natural nail color: Some people notice yellowing or browning of their nails after removing gel polish.

There's also some research suggesting that gel-manicured nails are harder to sanitize. Nails with gel polish don't necessarily trap more bacteria than nails with regular polish, but studies show they may be harder to clean with sanitizing gel.

UV exposure during drying

The lamps used to "set" a gel manicure give off UVA radiation, a type of UV radiation that can cause skin damage like sun spots and wrinkles. UVA rays also play a role in the development of skin cancers, including melanoma.

For context, the amount of time spent under these UV lamps during one visit is equal to about 3.5 to 6 minutes in the sun at noon during the summertime.

Damage caused by the removal process

The gel nail polish removal process, which should be done by a nail technician at a salon, involves buffing and scraping the polish off. Then, the nails are soaked in 100% acetone for several minutes.

Acetone is an ingredient in regular nail polish remover available at drugstores, but 100% concentrations are stronger and can make your nails brittle. Instead of just swiping it over your nails as you would with regular nail polish, you soak your nails in it for up to 10 minutes, which prolongs exposure.

Overall, this removal process can injure your nail plate and contribute to cracking, peeling, and white spots. This is true even when done professionally. If you peel the polish off yourself (which isn't recommended), you risk ripping off the top layers of your nails.

Do gel manicures increase your cancer risk?

There's no doubt that you get some UVA exposure during a gel manicure. But science isn't totally clear on whether this presents a significant cancer risk.

Some research suggests that even short UVA exposure during gel manicures may pose a low risk of skin cancer. And that the risk goes up if you get regular gel manicures due to increased exposure. Other research finds that gel manicures pose little to no increased cancer risk.

How do you get gel manicures safely?

If you do get gel manicures, there are some things you can do to protect yourself during (and after) the service:

• Get gel manicures for special occasions only. The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) recommends getting gel manicures infrequently. This will reduce your exposure to the UV lamps and give your nails time to breathe in between manicures.

• Apply sunscreen. During a gel manicure, apply sunscreen to the backs of your hands to protect against damage from UV light. The AAD recommends water-resistant sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher.

• Wear protective gloves. Gloves are another option for UV protection. Special gloves are made just for this purpose. They cover most of your hands but leave the tips of your fingers and nails exposed.

• Remove gel polish properly. Never peel off gel polish yourself, no matter how tempted you are. When it's time to take off your polish, it's best to return to the salon for proper removal.

How can you repair your nails after a gel manicure?

If you do have post-gel manicure nail damage, don't worry - it's usually temporary. There are steps you can take to speed up the repair process.

One of the best things you can do is give your nails a "nail polish break." Enjoy the gel manicure for as long as it lasts, and then go nail-polish free for a few weeks to allow your nails time to repair.

It may also help to:

• Hydrate your nails: Apply a thick moisturizer and/or cuticle oil to your nails and cuticles a few times throughout the day. This reduces brittleness and can make your nails less likely to chip.

• Try slugging: Just as face slugging can help lock in moisture, nail slugging may rehydrate nails that are dry and brittle from gel manicures. Rub cuticle oil on your nails and cuticles. Then, cover them in an occlusive ointment like petroleum jelly. Put on some overnight nail gloves and let the combo do its work while you sleep.

• Protect your nails: Don't use your nails to pick at or lift things, like tabs on cans. This can help prevent breakage, especially if your nails are weak from gel manicures.

What are the best alternatives to gel manicure?

The best alternative to a gel manicure is a traditional manicure with regular nail polish. It's even better if the nail polish is non-toxic. Your manicure may not be as long-lasting, but your nails will thank you.

Look for non-gel polishes labeled "non-toxic" or "free from harmful chemicals." You may also see nail polishes that are labeled "3-free." This means the polish is free of the following known toxic chemicals:

• Toluene, a neurotoxin

• Formaldehyde, a carcinogen

• Dibutyl phthalate (DnBP), a chemical compound used for many purposes

Other types of manicures, like acrylic nails or dip powder, come with their own sets of issues. Acrylic nails can contribute to nail thinning and peeling. Dip powder can also cause thinning and trigger allergic reactions or infections. Although these options are also long-lasting, they're not necessarily a better alternative to gel manicures.